Like most outdoor Adventurists, I grew up reading the works of Ernest Hemingway and was envious of the places he traveled to fish and hunt. I have to admit that those stories helped to develop my own character and eventually led to my current occupation as an outdoor adventure guide/tour operator of mainly fishing, hunting and mountain climbing expeditions. I have experienced nearly all of the places that Hemingway has written about except one. The place has been the subject of much political scrutiny and the setting of my favorite Hemingway book "The Old Man and The Sea," CUBA.
Little did I know that as I embarked on this fishing opportunity of a lifetime that my own unsettling personal adventure would unfold.
Although only 90 miles from the U.S. coastline, Cuba is a sleeping giant for American developers just waiting for the all clear sign from the U.S. government. But for now the only way in as an American citizen is illegally or through a special U.S. Treasury Department license. Of course being in the adventure travel business we opted for the latter and this decision would eventually become my own ticket home.
After a short layover in Cancun, Mexico we arrived early evening in Havana, Cuba to take in some of the beautiful old city that has been lost in time.
An early morning chartered flight would take us to the interior of the country to Ciego de Avila and eventually to the port city of Jucaro where our 90’ yacht "Halcon" awaited us for the 5 hour offshore cruise to our final destination Jardines de la Reina, also known as the "The Gardens of The Queen."
This eighty mile long deserted marine paradise consists of over a thousand cays and was our home for the next week. At times we felt like Christopher Columbus, fishing and exploring waters and creeks that have never seen a boat much less a Gotcha or a Crazy Charlie.
The fishing days were long in a good way, averaging 14 hours per day. Incredible rare species of wildlife were abundant as well as, of course, 9-12 pound Bonefish, with hundreds in each school, only seventy - five yards apart. 100 + lb Tarpon in schools unheard of and Permit, although not feeding due to a full moon, their monstrous tails and flashing sides in skinny water still got the adrenaline rushing. One of my clients even hooked into a saltwater crocodile and with the guide boating this prehistoric beast it would have made Steve Irwin proud. Our local Cuban guides, although limited in their English, were very proficient in their poling skills and kept us always in the game.
On our last night we witnessed a lunar eclipse as the nightly fresh lobster and grilled snapper were being served on the aft deck.
The Jardines de la Reina are described by some as the "going to school place" for flyfishermen. You will have plenty of opportunities to work out all of the kinks, to perfect your double haul and learn what not to do to land that trophy flats species.
Once back in Havana we had a day to visit the cigar museums, old watering holes of Hemingway and of course the highlight for me to see his home and especially his much written about boat "Pilar"
Lastly, my own adventure was due to a lost passport. Although there were many anxious moments, early trip preparation, a satellite telephone, a good friend here in Birmingham and of course the cooperation of the United States Embassy I was back home in less than 24 hours from the rest of my group.
A Communist Country, a lost passport and the best flats fishing the world can offer. What else could an adventurous soul dream of but Freedom.
For more information on this trip or other outdoor adventures contact:
John LaRussa or Alternate Path Adventures at 205-870-1661.